The Cymbidium - Flowering
The elegant blooms of thisOrchid are produced
and sold throughout the world.
Cymbidium blooms are generally medium sized and seldom fragrant
. The average flowering period for a Cymbidium is 3 to 6 weeks depending
on the environment and specific plant.
Once done blooming, Cymbidiums will drop their flowers. The stems
cut back and plants divided if necessary.
The Cymbidium - Light requirements
Is very important for growing cymbidiums.
Coming from cool and bright areas in Asia, they need high light
but cool temperatures. In many of our climates, the high level of
light cymbidiums need is accompanied by high temperatures in the
summer, which may cause the plants not to bloom.
There are several ways to counteract this: spray the plants with
water during summer afternoons to cool the plants down, shade more
heavily and increase air movement.
The maximum amount of light possible, short of burning, should
be given to the plants. This means only light shade during the middle
of the day, or about 20% shade. In cool areas (e.g., coastal California),
full sun is tolerated.
Leaves should be a medium to golden green in color, not dark green.
Shade more in the winter, especially if in bud.
The Cymbidium - Temperatures
Is the most critical factor in blooming cymbidiums of either type.
During the summer, standard cymbidiums are usually grown outside
in semi-shade, where day temperatures should be 75 to 85 degrees
F (or more), but night temperatures in the late summer to fall (August
to October) must be 50 to 60 degrees F to initiate flower spikes.
Optimum temperatures in winter are 45 to 55 degrees F at night
and 65 to 75 degrees F during the day. When in bud, temperatures
must be as constant as possible, between 55 and 75 degrees F.
Miniatures can stand temperatures 5 to 10 degrees higher than standards
and still bloom well.
Most cymbidiums can stand light frosts and survive, but it is not
recommended.
Bring them inside when temperatures dip to 40 degrees F; in mild
climates they may be grown outside year-round.
A bright and cool location inside is best for winter months.
The Cymbidium - Required Watering
Must be provided at all times to cymbidiums. As semi- terrestrials,
they need a fairly constant supply of moisture.
Since they produce all their vegetative growth during the spring
and summer months, they need the most water then.
Water heavily during the growth season, keeping the potting medium
from drying out completely, and reduce water when the pseudobulbs
are completed in late summer. Keep barely moist during the winter.
The Cymbidium - Necessary Humidity levels
Outdoors is usually sufficient during the summer months, except
in dry climates. There, evaporative cooling in a greenhouse, or
misting outside, is necessary.
Keep humidity at 40%-60% during the winter, especially if plants
are in bud.
Keep the air moving to prevent fungus(Botrytis) from spotting the
flowers.
The Cymbidium - Chilling Injury -
Cut Flowers
These plants have flowers that are failry
sensitive to "chilling" injury. Holding the flowers for any length
of time at temperatures below 10° C (50° F) will induce purpling,
browning around the edge, and then necrosis.
Cymbidium Blooms should therefore never be pre-cooled with other
flowers, nor held in low temperature cool-rooms below 50 degrees
F..
The Cymbidium - Fertilizer Requirements
At the proper time will help cymbidiums bloom.
During the growth season (spring through late summer), high- nitrogen
fertilizer (like 30-10-10) is used.
In late summer, use a high-phosphorus, bloom-booster fertilizer
(like 10-30-20), to help form bloom spikes.
Fertilize at full strength every week to two weeks. In winter,
fertilize once a month.
The Cymbidium - Potting & Re-potting
Is usually done in the spring after blooming, usually every two
years or when the potting medium decomposes.
Shake all the old potting mix off the roots, dividing the plant
if desired.
Divisions of green bulbs with leaves must have 3 to 4 bulbs minimum
to bloom; bulbs without leaves are considered backbulbs, and need
special care to grow (see below).
Pick a potting mix that will hold moisture well; a medium-grade
fir bark with peat moss and perlite is a common mix.
Select a pot that will allow for at least 2 to 3 years of pseudobulb
growth before crowding the pot, while planning on placing the active
growing bulb(s) of the division farthest from the side of the pot.
Spread the roots over a cone of the mix in the bottom of the pot,
and fill the pot with medium, working it among the roots, tamping
firmly. The junction of roots and pseudobulbs should be about 1/2"
to 1" below the top of the mix.
Keep shaded, drier at roots but humid, until new roots grow. Backbulbs
may be left on the division to add strength, or removed to propagate.
Take single backbulbs, and bury halfway in a bark or peat/sand mix.
Keep shaded and warm until new growth sprouts, and pot as above.
It may take up to three years to produce a blooming-size plant
from this method.
The Cymbidium -
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